Zen and the art of bull riding.

04.30.10

 

   The idea to ride bulls was realized partly because of a casual meeting in my parent’s bookshop with an ex champion bull rider from Texas, but mostly because I’m one of those stubborn freaks  who’ll follow through with reckless ideas rather than letting them flutter briefly around in the back of my head.  It was a silly idea for many reasons; I’m 34, not very fit or flexible and, at closing time in a pub, I’m not the kind to smash a tequila bottle over my head and shout “where’s the party?” 

But how do you learn to ride a wild animal that is eight times your body weight?   I could have gone to the local library and meticulously studied the history of bull riding.  I could have driven to a local rodeo and quizzed a bull rider.  I could have ordered the appropriate book from Amazon.   I did none of these things.    Instead, I did what anyone of my generation would do: I turned on a computer and dropped “how to ride a bull” into Google.  Surprisingly, there were schools for bull riding in America.  From a list of three bull riding schools, I narrowed it down to the one I thought the best and booked in.  My thoughts were these:  if my body (which is not the hardest or toughest or youngest) is to sit aloft a wild animal, if its flesh and bones are to be stomped on, if its nerves are to be stretched, if its mind is to be zapped, if its youth is to be drained, then why not get taught by someone who knows how to ride bulls.

  And so it was one week ago that I arrived in L.A. with documentary maker Richard Todd – who was eager to capture this inane quest on film.  After arriving in L.A., we picked up a hire car and drove four hours up the coast.  At the town of Nipomo, we stopped at steak house and asked if anyone knew of a man called Gary Leffew.  Turns out they did – and we followed their directions and pretty soon the road turned off into a beautiful little dirt track which wound its way through a series of gullies and rocky mountains.   As the canopies of oak trees touched above us, it appeared to me that my safety was assured – this was far too beautiful a place to die from bull riding. 

  When we found the ranch, Gary opened the door with a smile.  His blue eyes were shining.  There was something familiar about those eyes, something comforting.  His short stature and warm handshake didn’t earmark him immediately him as a tobacco chewing western brawler.   I was introduced to the other students in the group – who were young and gung-ho and wholesome in that American way and all seemed to go by the name Cody or Colby. 

  The school started with a theory session by Gary’s son Brett.  Slowly pacing around a stationary barrel, he meticulously explained the physical mechanics of bull riding.  After lunch, we waltzed down to Gary’s arena to attempt to convert what we’d learnt theoretically into bull riding.   After watching others being dispatched to various parts of the pen, dust themselves off and limp back to the gate, it quickly became apparent to me that these kids were hard-wired for pain.

   My first bull was called “Pooh Bear gone Wild.”  In the chutes, Poor Bear did not seem aggressive.  He waited for me patiently as I climbed over his back and did not move as the others tied a rope around my hand.  After the rope was secured, the other kids – the young wholesome American maniacs – began shouting all kinds of instructions: “Sit up straight.”  “Get up on your rope.”  “Squeeze with your legs.” 

  My heart was pumping hard but old Pooh Bear Gone Wild didn’t seem to care.   My mind was blank – what had been taught earlier completely forgotten.   Judd, another of Gary’s sons, had the role of opening the chute gate to release the bull.   He was constantly cracking jokes in the chute, and when releasing the bull, he’d utter the same three words that he’s use for the rest of the week:  “Have fun now.”

  Pooh Bear Gone Wild was slow moving, devoid of a kick and had been previously described by Gary as the ultimate beginner’s bull.  He still had enough power, however, to lope around and throw me into the fence.   The truth is I should have ridden Pooh Bear for longer but was completely psyched-out in the chutes.   I did not improve much on my second attempt on him, but for those few initial seconds, I felt what it was like to be almost centered as Pooh Bear jumped beneath me.   Feeling battered and bruised, we collected our ropes and spurs and headed for a wooden shack named the “bunk house”, where Gary reviewed our rides from the video he’d recorded earlier.

  Later that night, Gary told me that if I wanted to become a bull rider I had to learn an old Zen proverb:  “to chop wood and carry water.”  When quizzed, he explained that it meant I had to practice drills on the barrel every day.

 “In bull riding, you don’t have time to think,” he said.   “Your mind needs to be blank and relying on instinct.  That’s why I’m telling you to chop wood and carry water.  We’ll teach you the physical movements required, you just need to hammer them into your subconscious mind.”    

  Speaking with Gary was clear vindication that everything was right with the world.  I believe it is right for this reason: occasionally in life you’ll have a perception of someone or something and that perception will not only be proved wrong but so beautifully and crisply shattered that you’ll be left standing with a shocked goofy smile on your face.   I thought a bull riding coach would be boisterous and unruly, Gary is soft spoken and thoughtful.   I thought they’d be encouraging strength and force, Gary nurtures balance and timing.  I thought they’d eat steak and chew tobacco; Gary eats nuts and beans and makes himself a daily concoction of lemon juice and pepper.   I thought they’d drink whisky; Gary practices meditation and frequently discusses eastern philosophy.   I thought to ride a bull you’d have to grit your teeth, clench you jaw and fight; Gary encourages you to accept the bull’s energy and move with it – “just like dancin’”.

  Back in his glory days, Gary didn’t mind being referred to as the hippy on the tour.  It didn’t stop him from winning the bull riding world title in 1970, and remaining in the top 10 for the majority of his 20- year career.  Around his house, the shelves are stocked full of books on positive thinking.

  And god darn it if “chopping wood and carrying water” and all of Gary’s discussions on the power of positive thinking didn’t work, because by the end of the week I’d ridden Pooh Bear twice and those sore wrists and tweaked muscles didn’t seem to ache quite so hard anymore.  So if you ever do find yourself on a windy gravel track 10 kilometers east of the small town on Nipomo in California, do yourself a favour and have a chat with Gary, for what you don’t learn in the way of taming wild bulls, you’ll make up for in the enlightenment of your soul. 

  Next blog about Vegas coming soon….plus photos.

  Sull.

 

Aileron Station.

04.11.10

If you were to arrive in Alice Springs, avoid flies, buy supplies, drive 2 hours south along the wide ol’ Stuart Highway, then turn left at a statue of a giant aboriginal man clutching a spear, you would find yourself at Aileron Station.

  That is exactly what film maker Richard (Toddy) Todd and I did last weekend.  We arrived in Aileron right on dark on good Friday.  I was there to attempt to participate in a bull riding school run by the legendary Australian bull rider Troy Dunn.  Toddy was there to film my attempt.

   On the drive down from Alice Springs we’d eagerly heaped plaudits on the brilliantly designed Britz Camper Van, but I silenced the praise on inspection of our sleeping arrangements.  The bottom bunk was three feet wide,  six feet long.  The top bunk was three feet wide, four feet long and and less than a foot from the roof.  I was on the top bunk.  I did not sleep well.  It may have been because we were parked between the  Cicada olympics, it may have been because my legs were dangling from the bed, it was probably because tomorrow I was expected to jump on the back of a wild animal that weighed 5 times my body weight. 

  We woke, ate breakfast and drove down to the cattle yards.  Standing casually behind the chutes of the yards were the other students in the bull riding school.  They were mostly young and wiry and had that mad-eyed stare you’d expect from participants in a bull riding school.   Sitting aloft a canvass barrel, Troy introduced us to the equipment required and the mechanics of bull riding.   In the distance, massive bulls waltzed around the pens.

  “Righteo Fellas,” Troy announced.  “Let’s get some bulls in here.”

  My mind was a whirlwind.  Everthing was happening too fast.  There was too much to remember.  Was that lean forward when the bull leaves the chute, or wait for the first buck before leaning?   What do you mean by spurring the bull?

  The first bull rider of the school was up.  His wild beard, easy smile and colourful chaps immediately struck me as familiar - and then I realized it was because he reminded me of the enigmatic badie in Hollywood Westerns.  The first bull was big and bucked hard.  Real hard.  The bull rider rode out a few bucks admirably and then was dispatched.  Toddy turned to me with his video camera resting on his shoulders.

  “You don’t have to do it mate.”

   Hankering to get it over and done with, I searched the yards for a smallish bull.  Troy could sense my apprehension and shouted:

  “Don’t worry Sullivan.  We’ll get an easy one for you.”

  They scurried a big yellow Brahman into the chutes.

  “This one’s yours.”

  He must be joking.  The bull before me was big enough to cause pain.  Watching me sizing the bull up, Troy said:  ”Don’t worry mate, he’s not a bucker, he’s a galloper.”

   The image in my mind of being connected to an 800 kilo animal while it galloped was not necessarily more reassuring.   Encouraged by the other students, I climed up on top of the chutes and slowly lowered my legs to a railing beside the bull.  A rope was pulled around the bull and then tied around my hand.   This was nuts.  This was all happening too fast.

  “Come on mate,” another student encouraged me as I sat on the bull fearfully.  ”It’s time to get aggressive.”

  They opened the chutes and I did not discover whether the bull was a bucker or galloper because I landed on the dirt too quickly.  At least I was still alive.  The goal of bull riding is to stay on the bull for 8 seconds.  Back in the yards, Toddy quipped:  ”Good job mate, you’ve only got another 7.8 seconds to go”.

  Later, I jumped on another bull and hardly made it further.  Leaning up on a railing feeling disheartened, I stuck up a conversation with another guy in the school called Noddy.

  “Does it get easier after your first ride?”

  “Nah, get’s harder.”

  There was a Rodeo scheduled after the bull riding school, so when the open bull riding division was on, I snuck up behind the chutes and watched as the guys strapped themselves in, grimaced and hung on passionately.

    We left Aileron two days later.  Unfortuanetly I do not have time to fully expand on the relationship that exists between rodeo clowns (now called bull fighters) and bull riders, or the magnificent Cook family (who were the people that organized the Aileron event), or the dance held in an old barn on Saturday night, or even the warmth of people of the bush.  I will say this: I think there is a secret to bull riding and I reckon I’ll even hang on for eight seconds one day.  Until then, I’ll rest my weary bones and ponder that secret.  Next stop – Gary Leffew’s bull riding school in the good ol’ US of A. 

  Yeeha.